Seven nights, three hotels, and the itinerary I’d do all over again.
There are some trips where the hotel is simply somewhere to sleep between everything you’ve planned. This wasn’t one of them.
We spent seven nights in the Italian Dolomites at three very different hotels, each with its own reason to make the trip. There were long days on the trails, meals I still think about, and a few mornings that made getting out of bed before sunrise completely worth it.
We rented a car, spent our first three nights in Val Gardena, moved to Alpe di Siusi for one night, and finished with three nights at FORESTIS. Looking back, it was the balance that made the week: enough time to explore the mountains, followed by enough time to actually enjoy where we were staying.
The itinerary at a glance
| Day | The plan |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrive in Val Gardena · Granvara |
| Day 2 | Seceda hike · Granvara |
| Day 3 | Sassolungo Loop · Granvara |
| Day 4 | Alpe di Siusi · ADLER Lodge ALPE |
| Day 5 | Sunrise at ADLER · Check into FORESTIS |
| Day 6 | Spa treatments & dining · FORESTIS |
| Day 7 | Relax and enjoy FORESTIS |
| Day 8 | Drive to Verona · Vineyard dinner and stay at Magari Estates |
Days 1–3: Granvara & Val Gardena
We started our trip with three nights at Granvara Relais & Spa Hotel, where we were lucky enough to be upgraded to a Wellness Suite Premium with a private terrace.
Of the three hotels we visited, Granvara was my favorite.
It wasn’t necessarily one thing that made it stand out. It was how we felt being there. Between the people, the room, and the food, everything just felt welcoming. It’s one thing to stay somewhere beautiful, but it’s another to feel completely at home there. Granvara managed to be both.
It also made the perfect home base for two of our biggest hiking days.
The full stay: Read my Granvara Relais & Spa Hotel review →
Day 2: Hiking Seceda Counterclockwise
For our first big hiking day, we headed to Seceda, taking the Col Raiser lift and choosing the counterclockwise route toward Rifugio Firenze and Pieralongia before reaching the famous ridgeline.
I’m so glad we went in this direction.
It was a cloudy day, and we were some of the only people on the trail. For somewhere as popular as Seceda, having stretches of the mountains almost entirely to ourselves felt pretty special.
Going counterclockwise also meant we avoided the steep uphill climb we’d have faced going clockwise. The trade-off was tackling those steep sections downhill toward the end, which was still challenging, especially with the possibility of wet trails. But I’d happily choose the same route again.
Even with the clouds, this was one of our favorite days in the Dolomites.
Day 3: The Sassolungo Loop
Sassolungo was a completely different experience from Seceda. We tackled the approximately 10-mile loop clockwise, and this hike challenged us more than we’d anticipated.
We started by passing Rifugio Friedrich August, the mountain hut known for its donuts, before continuing along the ridge. We didn’t stop at the rifugio, but it’s a useful landmark near the beginning of the route.
The scenery was incredible. Along the way, we passed donkeys, horses, and cows grazing against the mountain backdrop. It was the kind of landscape that made us want to stop for photographs constantly.
But the second half of the hike was no joke.
Between the steep climb and descent toward the end, we were definitely feeling those miles. It was physically demanding, and much harder than we’d expected. But the final view of the Sassolungo range made every bit of the effort worthwhile.
Worth knowing: Don’t underestimate this hike just because the earlier sections feel manageable. The later miles were the most challenging for us, so I’d recommend starting early, bringing plenty of water and snacks, and allowing more time than you think you’ll need.
While we loved the food at Granvara, we did venture out one evening for dinner at Velu, which we really enjoyed. If you’re staying in Val Gardena and looking for somewhere to eat outside your hotel, it’s one I’d recommend adding to your list.
Day 4: ADLER ALPE
After three nights at Granvara, we drove to ADLER Alpe for one night on Alpe di Siusi.
Our two-story chalet looked out over the meadows toward Sassolungo, the very same mountain range we’d been hiking less than 24 hours earlier. Sitting there, looking out at the trails we’d just climbed, was one of my favorite moments of the trip.
That night, we fell asleep to the sound of cowbells from the surrounding pastures. The next morning, we woke up early and walked out into the meadows to watch the sunrise. Afterward, we settled into Adirondack chairs with coffee and tea, taking in the view. It was such a simple morning, but one I’ll always remember.
ADLER gave us some unforgettable moments, even if the overall stay wasn’t quite as strong as our other two hotels.
Later that day, we left for the final stop of our trip: FORESTIS.
The full stay: Read my ADLER ALPE review →
Days 5–7: FORESTIS
We finished our week in the Dolomites with three nights at FORESTIS. After several days of hiking and moving between hotels, we were ready to slow down.
We spent all three days at the hotel, and I wouldn’t have changed a thing.
We stayed in a Tower Suite, where the mountain views were almost impossible to look away from. But as incredible as the setting was, the food might have been the most memorable part of our stay.
We ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner at FORESTIS, and I genuinely think it was some of the best food we’ve ever had, anywhere. Every meal became something to look forward to.
Between spa treatments, incredible dining, and time spent enjoying the property, we had no reason to leave. It was exactly how we wanted to end the trip.
The full stay: Read my FORESTIS review →
One last night: Magari Estates
With an early flight out of Venice, we decided to spend our final night closer to the airport rather than make the three-hour drive from the Dolomites the next morning. Magari Estates was about an hour from the airport, and its vineyard setting and restaurant made it an easy choice.
The property sits among the vineyards, reached by a dirt road that winds through the vines. With only a handful of rooms, it felt intimate and a little removed from everything. The highlight was dinner: a full tasting menu included in our stay, accompanied by some of the most interesting wines we tried in Italy. With a predominantly Italian and European crowd, it felt refreshingly removed from the usual tourist circuit.
The rooms were simple but clean and comfortable. What stood out more was the hospitality. When we mentioned our early departure, the staff offered to pack cookies and treats for the road since we’d be missing breakfast.
I’m not sure I’d return for another stay, but I’m glad we made the stop. What started as a practical decision to be closer to the airport turned into a memorable final evening.
A few things I’d know before going
Rent a car (and be prepared for the roads). Having our own car made it easy to move between hotels and explore Val Gardena without planning around transfers. That said, driving in the Dolomites was an adventure of its own. Some roads were so narrow that I regularly found myself pulling over to let buses squeeze past. The drives near Sassolungo and especially leaving FORESTIS were particularly memorable, and not necessarily for the views. I’d absolutely rent a car again, but there were definitely a few white-knuckle moments along the way.
Don’t underestimate the hikes. Seceda and Sassolungo were two of the highlights of our trip, but they were very different experiences. Hiking Seceda counterclockwise worked well for us, especially with the cloudier weather and quieter trails. Sassolungo was significantly more demanding than we’d anticipated, particularly toward the end. I’d go into that hike prepared for a long, challenging day.
Give yourself time to enjoy the hotels. Looking back, I’m glad we didn’t try to squeeze another hike into our final three days. Staying at FORESTIS and having absolutely nowhere to be was one of the best decisions we made.
One night at ADLER was enough for us. I’m so glad we experienced the chalet, the meadows, and that sunrise, but I wouldn’t have taken a night away from Granvara or FORESTIS to extend our stay there.
If I were planning this trip again, I wouldn’t change much. Three nights in Val Gardena gave us time to explore the mountains, one night on Alpe di Siusi brought a completely different perspective, and finishing at FORESTIS gave us a chance to slow down and enjoy it all.
What I’ll remember most isn’t just the hikes or the hotels, but how well the two came together. The long days outside made returning to somewhere special feel even better, and the quieter days reminded me that sometimes the place you’re staying is reason enough to go.
